Day-Night Differences in Effects of Cosmetic Treatments on Facial Skin. Effects on Facial Skin Appearance

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Abstract
Two groups of 24 healthy caucasian women, similar with regard to age classes (from 19 to 55) as well as fair and dark complexion of skin and hair, volunteered to use during a 14-day span a conventional facial cream (active placebo: AP) and thereafter, during a 21-day span Noctosome (Noctos). The latter is a new generation of liposome made with non-ionic lipids leading to microspheres which include glycopeptides in the aqueous compartment of the vesicle, .alpha.-tocopherol ester in the membrane-like structure and sphingo-ceramides at the surface of the microspheres. The aim of the study was to test the beneficial effects of Noctos (vsAP) with respectively morning (7-9-hr) and evening (21-23-hr) applications as facial ointments. Observed differences were validated using several statistical tests: ANOVA, cosinor, etc. Subjects were socially synchronized with a diurnal activity from 7 hr to 23 hr and a nocturnal rest. Each day, at fixed clock hours (7, 10, 20 and 23 hr), each subject used visual analogue scales to self-rate a set of variables characterizing facial aspects. Brilliance of complexion and texture of skin exhibited a circadian rhythm (peak time at 10 hr), both with AP and Noctos. The latter produces a beneficial effect with regard to reference values (AP). The evening application of Noctos is more efficient than the morning one. However, the magnitude of this beneficial effect is related both to age (greater for the age class 25-35 years than for younger and older subjects) and to skin complexion (greater for fair than dark complexioned subjects). Major beneficial effects of Noctos in the evening hours are related to fatigue nor to mood of the women since the respective circadian rhythms of these variables appear to vary independently from those of facial skin characteristics.