Statistical distributions for ocean waves
- 1 October 1952
- journal article
- Published by American Geophysical Union (AGU) in EOS, Transactions American Geophysical Union
- Vol. 33 (5) , 685-692
- https://doi.org/10.1029/tr033i005p00685
Abstract
Results are presented from the analysis of data obtained by underwater pressure recorders in the Pacific Ocean. Computed parameters describing the statistical distribution of wave heights and wave periods are given and incorporated into one‐parameter probability models closely fitting the data. The model for wave‐height distributions is found to provide a satisfactory explanation for the ratios among the mean and certain specified wave heights reported by other observers. The degree of relation between the heights or periods of successive waves or between the height and the period of the same wave was found to be relatively low.Keywords
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