Wave Numbers of Linear Progressive Waves
- 1 July 1986
- journal article
- Published by American Society of Civil Engineers (ASCE) in Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
- Vol. 112 (4) , 536-540
- https://doi.org/10.1061/(asce)0733-950x(1986)112:4(536)
Abstract
An explicit solution for wave number and wave speed is derived. The method of solution is to expand the linear wave dispersion relation in Taylor series in the neighborhoods of deep and shallow water limits. The two series are matched at the inflection point of the dispersion function, where the shoaling wave height is a minimum value. Numerical comparisons indicate that the present solution is computationally efficient and has an error of less than 0.05%. Two applications are made to solve problems, involving nearshore spectral analysis and refraction of ocean waves.Keywords
This publication has 3 references indexed in Scilit:
- Waves and longshore currents: Comparison of a numerical model with field dataJournal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 1985
- Direct Solution of Wave Dispersion EquationJournal of the Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Division, 1979
- The mechanics of the surf zonePublished by Springer Nature ,1973