The directional Spectra and Kinematics of Surface Gravity Waves in Tropical Storm Delia

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Abstract
Knowledge of the kinematics of the flow beneath surface waves is vital for the design of offshore structures. Due to the technical of making pertinent measurement in storm conditions, knowledge of the kinematics of storm has been based almost entirely on theoretical considerations. Now measurements made with electromagnetic current meters during Tropical Storm Delia have permitted verification of the theories. There was considerable scatter between the measured velocities and the predictions of unidirectional wave theories, with a clear bias toward overprediction. Use of higher order and irregular unidirectional theories did not substantially improve the comparison. A good fit with the data could, however, be obtained by using the concept of a directional wave spectrum based on linear wave theory. The simultaneous wave and particle velocity measurements were used to estimate the directional spectrum through an analysis procedure which took into account the presence of a strong current. The direct... Abstract Knowledge of the kinematics of the flow beneath surface waves is vital for the design of offshore structures. Due to the technical of making pertinent measurement in storm conditions, knowledge of the kinematics of storm has been based almost entirely on theoretical considerations. Now measurements made with electromagnetic current meters during Tropical Storm Delia have permitted verification of the theories. There was considerable scatter between the measured velocities and the predictions of unidirectional wave theories, with a clear bias toward overprediction. Use of higher order and irregular unidirectional theories did not substantially improve the comparison. A good fit with the data could, however, be obtained by using the concept of a directional wave spectrum based on linear wave theory. The simultaneous wave and particle velocity measurements were used to estimate the directional spectrum through an analysis procedure which took into account the presence of a strong current. The direct...

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