Effect of Acylation on the Setting of Wool

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Abstract
The acylation of wool fabrics with a range of active esters decreases the ability of the wool to set, whether in the presence or absence of a setting agent. Amino, thiol, hydroxyl and phenolic groups are all modified during acylation, but our results show that the decrease in settability can be attributed mainly to the modification of amino groups and to the effect that this has on the overall electrical charge on the fiber. The partial modification of thiol groups causes some decrease in settability, but only when setting is carried out in the absence of a reducing agent. Treatments with bifunctional acylating agents decrease settability further by introducing cross links between protein chains.