The second approximation to mass transport in cnoidal waves

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Abstract
A second approximation is developed for the mass-transport velocity within the bottom boundary layer of cnoidal waves progressing over a smooth horizontal bed. Mass-transport profiles through the boundary layer are obtained by considering terms of up to third order in the perturbation parameter. A comparison with results based on a first approximation indicates that the effect of the third-order terms is to predict a smaller mass-transport velocity and that this difference is generally significant, particularly for waves extending to the intermediate depth range. The predicted correction to the first approximation is qualitatively supported by experimental evidence.

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