2—THE BENDING AND SHEAR PROPERTIES OF WOOL PUNTO-DI-ROMA DOUBLE-KNITTED FABRICS

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Abstract
Experiments are described in which the bending- and shear-hysteresis curves are obtained for a series of finished wool Punto-di-Roma fabrics of varying tightness factor and run-in ratio. The shape of the bending- and shear-hysteresis curves, together with the elastic and frictional parameters obtained from the curves, is analysed in terms of the structural mechanisms associated with bending and shear deformation. The values of the bending and shear parameters for Punto-di-Roma fabrics are shown to be critically dependent on the fabric run-in ratio. The experimental results were analysed statistically in order to study the effects on fabric-bending and fabric-shear properties of each of the following variables and their interactions: the tightness factor, the run-in ratio, the sign of curvature in the bending test, the level of applied tension in the shear test, and the direction of applied tension in the shear test (parallel to the courses or wales). Interactions between these variables during bending- and shear-testing are discussed in terms of the freedom of movement of yarns within the fabric.

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