WAVES AND BREAKERS IN SHOALING WATER

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Abstract
Wiegel and Johnson (1950) summarized useable wave theories for deep and shallow water. Mason (1950) discussed waves in shoaling water and compared theoretical predictions with measurements. The theories are shown to apply, within practical limits, to periodic systems of deep water waves, and to periodic waves progressing over a shoaling bottom to wave positions near the breaking point. Near and at the breaking position the wave features are not predicted from theory with desired accuracies and measured characteristics are used to describe breakers. The available measurements are limited and do not show the effects of variables such as the beach slope. Recent work at the University of California has resulted in information on the limits of applicability of the linearized wave theories as applied to wave transformation in shoaling water, and on breaker shapes and motion; including the effect of beach slope.

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