XXVII. Observations on the motions of shingle beaches

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Abstract
The extraordinary prevalence of tempestuous weather during the last autumn having occasioned numerous disasters on our coast, the public attention was directed in an unusual degree to the imperfections of many of the harbours, and more parti­cularly to those which are encumbered with accumulations of shingle. The access to harbours thus circumstanced is generally uncertain, and in tempestuous weather is frequently dangerous, or even impossible. The action of the sea, which gives motion to the shingles and produces the evils complained of, has long been a subject of speculation; but I have not found that it has been systematically investigated. Indeed, the contrariety of opinions advanced upon the subject, sufficiently indicates an entire absence of that satisfactory mode of inquiry which is essential to the foundation of a safe and practical deduction.

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