12—Pilling of Fabrics

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Abstract
A laboratory apparatus has been constructed to study the pilling of fabrics. Work was concentrated on nylon and nylon blended woven fabrics. The following variables were studied; nylon content, fibre denier and staple length, yarn twist, doubling yarns, ends and picks, type of weave, milling, heat-setting, dyeing, wetting and flexing. The effects of cropping and of applying certain chemical finishes, the forces required to remove pills from fabrics and the extent to which fibres were withdrawn from fabrics under a given load were also determined. The pilling results obtained with the laboratory apparatus correlated with those obtained from small-scale wearer trials. These trials showed that the pilling of a cloth varied considerably with its end-use and that large differences can occur between individuals wearing tbe same garment. Pilling is caused by protruding fibres which entangle when a fabric is rubbed. The magnitude of the pilling depends upon the number and lengths of protruding fibres and the ease with which they can bend round one another. When the fibres are weak the fabric shows little or no pilling, because the pills break off easily. The two most effective methods of reducing pilling are to increase the nylon filament denier or to remove protruding fibres by cropping (or singeing). The former permanently reduces or eliminates pilling. Cropping prevents pilling of very tightly constructed fabrics, but loosely constructed ones still pill, because rubbing raises other fibres from the surface of the fabric to form pills. This effect can be reduced by increasing the forces holding the fibres inside the fabric, but if these forces are exceeded in wear then the fabric may pill badly. The frictional forces between fibres can be Increased by suitable chemical treatment or by an appropriate choice of yarn and fabric properties. Pilling varies appreciably with the spinning system used. In general, fabrics made on the silk and worsted systems give the least pilling, those made on the cotton system give more pilling, and those made on the woollen system give the most pilling. Increasing the nylon content in nylon/wool blends usual1y increases pilling, but 50/50 nylon/wool fabrics sometimes pill more than 100 per cent nylon fabrics. Pilling is reduced (a) by increasing yarn twist, (b) by using doubled yarns instead of equivalent single yarns, (c) by increasing ends and picks appreciably, and (d) when a plain weave is used instead of a twill weave. Milling, or the use of wax-like proofing agents, increases pilling. Flexing a fabric has no effect upon pilling. Dyeing has no effect, unless the fabric is treated with soap solution, when its pilling may be increased appreciably.

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