Water waves of finite amplitude on a sloping beach
- 1 May 1958
- journal article
- research article
- Published by Cambridge University Press (CUP) in Journal of Fluid Mechanics
- Vol. 4 (1) , 97-109
- https://doi.org/10.1017/s0022112058000331
Abstract
In this paper, we investigate the behaviour of a wave as it climbs a sloping beach. Explicit solutions of the equations of the non-linear inviscid shallow-water theory are obtained for several physically interesting wave-forms. In particular it is shown that waves can climb a sloping beach without breaking. Formulae for the motions of the instantaneous shoreline as well as the time histories of specific wave-forms are presented.Keywords
This publication has 1 reference indexed in Scilit:
- The formation of breakers and bores the theory of nonlinear wave propagation in shallow water and open channelsCommunications on Pure and Applied Mathematics, 1948