An Interpretation of the observable properties of ‘sea’ waves in terms of the energy spectrum of the Gaussian Record

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Abstract
The results of a basic paper in communication theory by Rice are applied to ocean waves. On the basis of new results obtained by Neumann on the nature of wave spectra many complicated properties of the waves are explained theoretically. It is shown that the average of the time intervals between successive crests does not yield a “period” which is representative of the period where most of the spectral energy is concentrated. It is shown that the formula L = gT2/2π does not apply to sea conditions. An explanation of the period increase of ocean swell is given which does not depend upon selective attenuation of the low period waves in the spectrum.

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