Estimation of Water Particle Velocities by a Modified Transfer Function Method

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Abstract
This paper is to propose a simple yet highly reliable approximate method to estimate the water particle velocity of finite amplitude waves with symmetrical and asymmetrical surface profiles at shallow water depth in regular and irregular wave environments. Using Dean's stream function theory, the effect of nonlinearity is introduced to modify the linear transfer function of the Airy wave theory. The present approximate method uses the modified transfer function. Laboratory experiments have been performed to examine the validity of the proposed method. The approximate method is shown to evaluate well the experimental values, as accurately as Dean's stream function method, although its calculation procedure is much simpler than that of Dean's method.

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