Mass transport in the bottom boundary layer of cnoidal waves

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Abstract
This study deals with the mass-transport velocity within the bottom boundary layer of cnoidal waves progressing over a smooth horizontal bed. Mass-transport velocity distributions through the boundary layer are derived and compared with that predicted by Longuet-Higgins (1953) for sinusoidal waves. The mass transport at the outer edge of the boundary layer is compared with various theoretical results for an inviscid fluid based on cnoidal wave theory and also with previous experimental results. The effect of the viscous boundary layer is to establish uniquely the bottom mass transport and this is appreciably greater than the somewhat arbitrary prediction for an inviscid fluid.

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