SHORELINE DIRECTIONAL WAVE SPECTRA. PART 2. INSTRUMENTATION AND FIELD MEASUREMENTS.

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Abstract
A device for measuring shoreline directional wave spectra is described which has successfully measured shoreline waves over a three-month period, including some major storm events. The directional energy densities have been determined using the maximum likelihood method (MLM). All of the derived wave parameters have been entered in a temporary database, which will eventually form part of a much larger permanent computer database. This database will comprise a unique set of high quality directional wave data which may be used for evaluating computational models of wave transformations and the effects of offshore breakwaters on beach evolution

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