ENERGY LOSS AND SET-UP DUE TO BREAKING OF RANDOM WAVES
Open Access
- 29 January 1978
- journal article
- Published by Coastal Engineering Research Council in Coastal Engineering Proceedings
- Vol. 1 (16) , 32
- https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v16.32
Abstract
A description is given of a model developed for the prediction of the dissipation of energy in random waves breaking on a beach. The dissipation rate per breaking wave is estimated from that in a bore of corresponding height, while the probability of occurrence of breaking waves is estimated on the basis of a wave height distribution with an upper cut-off which in shallow water is determined mainly by the local depth. A comparison with measurements of wave height decay and set-up, on a plane beach and on a beach with a bar-trough profile, indicates that the model is capable of predicting qualitatively and quantitatively all the main features of the data.Keywords
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