Equilibrium Range Spectra in Shoaling Water

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Abstract
In shoaling water on sloping beach, waves break by hydraulic instability due to the finiteness of water depth, so that frequency spectra of waves in surf zone must have any limiting form similar to the equilibrium spectrum given by Phillips(1958) In this paper, authors have derived an equilibrium form of spectra for surf waves from the limiting wave condition at constant water depth by Miche(1944) and from breaking wave experiments on sloped bottom by Iversen(1952) The results are compared with surf wave spectra obtained from field observations by means of stereo-type wave meter devised by the authors(1968). By means of this spectrum and by deep water wave spectra for various wind conditions, significant wave heights and optimum periods of limiting waves in surf zone are calculated

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