A presentation of cnoidal wave theory for practical application

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Abstract
Cnoidal wave theory is appropriate to periodic waves progressing in water whose depth is less than about one-tenth the wavelength. The leading results of existing theories are modified and given in a more practical form, and the graphs necessary to their use by engineers are presented. As well as results for the wave celerity and shape, expressions and graphs for the water particle velocity and local acceleration fields are given. A few comparisons between theory and laboratory measurements are included.