Appraisal of Woven Fabric Quality

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Abstract
The quality of a woven fabric is judged initially by its appearance and handle and thereafter by how it wears and performs in service. While much has been published on wear as such, little has been published on the general appraisal of quality and the comparative manner by which the physical properties change as a result of wear. Following a broad review of wear, particularly abrasion resistance, three models are proposed as constituting ways by which woven fabric quality could be changed. These include increasing the sett of the fabric, increasing the linear density of the yarns, and varying both while maintaining a constant cover factor. Practical examples are given and the physical properties of these fabrics are examined. Some fit the pattern suggested by one or other of the models where there are only two or three fabrics with constant features apart from one major change in structure (i.e., sett or yarn count). Reasons are given for difficulties with appraisal where there are a number of fabrics and where differences between some are small.

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