On the Vertical Distribution of Water Particle Velocity Induced by Waves on Beach

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Abstract
As ocean waves progress on the beach, wave characteristics change and waves break finally. On the transformation of wave height, celerity, length, and the breaking wave height and depth, many investigations have been conducted both theoretically and experimentally. However, the variation of the water particle velocity, which is very important in consideration of the wave force on offshore structures and the suspension of bed materials, has been little investigated previously. The vertical distributions of horizontal water particle velocity induced by waves progressing on a uniform slope beach (1/20) in a wave tank were measured by using the hydrogen bubble method. The experimental results were compared with wave theories on a horizontal bottom and discussed in order to clarify the difference between the water particle velocity field on the horizontal bottom and that on the beach.

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