The solitary wave in water of variable depth
- 9 July 1970
- journal article
- research article
- Published by Cambridge University Press (CUP) in Journal of Fluid Mechanics
- Vol. 42 (3) , 639-656
- https://doi.org/10.1017/s0022112070001520
Abstract
Equations are derived for two-dimensional long waves of small, but finite, amplitude in water of variable depth, analogous to those derived by Boussinesq for water of constant depth. When the depth is slowly varying compared to the length of the wave, an asymptotic solution of these equations is obtained which describes a slowly varying solitary wave; also differential equations for the slow variations of the parameters describing the solitary wave are derived, and solved in the case when the solitary wave evolves from a region of uniform depth. For small amplitudes it is found that the wave amplitude varies inversely as the depth.Keywords
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