THE LUSTRE OF RAW COTTONS AND OF FOLDED YARNS SPUN FROM THEM

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Abstract
The present research deals with the lustre of various cottons ranging from Sea Island to Indian, and with the lustre of folded yarns spun from them, and attempts to determine the factors which control the lustre of the folded yarn. It is shown that with increase of the staple length of cotton there is an increase in the proportion of the lustre of the raw cotton which can be reproduced in the final yarn, and that if cottons of the same lustre but of varying lengths be spun, then the longer cottons produce the more lustrous yarns. This is attributed to the superior spinning qualities of the long cottons, whereby the hairs are arranged in a manner more nearly parallel than is the case with the short cottons. This view is supported by the fact that if two yarns be spun from the same cotton, one being combed and the other carded, the combed yarn has the higher lustre, on account of the more regular arrangement of the hairs in the yarn brought about by the elimination of the short hairs. It is suggested that the lustre of a yarn is as dependent upon the spinning qualities of the cotton as upon the lustre of the raw cotton. However lustrous a short cotton may be, so small a proportion of its lustre can be reproduced in the yarn, owing to its lower spinning quality, that the yarn is less lustrous than if spun from a cotton of lower lustre but of better spinning quality. In the latter case, a greater percentage of the lustre can be reproduced, purely on account of the superior drafting qualities of the long cotton, which enable the hairs to be placed in positions in the yarn which are better for the reflection of light.

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