Shoaling and Deformation of Non-Linear Long Waves
- 1 December 1973
- journal article
- research article
- Published by Taylor & Francis in Coastal Engineering in Japan
- Vol. 16 (1) , 1-12
- https://doi.org/10.1080/05785634.1973.11924160
Abstract
The Kakutani equation is rewritten in retaining the relative weights of terms: non-linearlity, dispersion and the effect of unevenness of bottom. Laws of shoaling are derived from the equation. Linear long waves and nonlinear long waves without the effect of dispersion give the “—1/4 power” law without regard to the initial wave profile. Shoaling of a solitary wave is solved to give the “—1 power” law. Boundary between the two laws depends on the bottom slope and the ratio of wave height to water depth. Comparison with experimental results supports these conclusions.Keywords
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