The evolution of time-periodic long waves of finite amplitude

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Abstract
The breakdown of shallow water waves into forms exhibiting several secondary crests is analyzed by numerical computations based on approximate equations accounting for the effects of non-linearity and dispersion. From detailed results of two cases it is shown that when long waves are such that the parameter σ = ν*L*2/h*3 is of moderate magnitude, either due to initially steep waves generated at a wave-maker or due to forced amplification by decreasing depth, waves periodic in time do not remain simply periodic in space. Numerical results are compared with experiments for waves propagating past a slope and onto a shelf.