Nonlinear, Dispersive Long Waves in Water of Variable Depth.

Abstract
The use of weakly dispersive models to compute the propagation of nonlinear ocean surface waves in the coastal environment is reviewed. Models which are fully two dimensional in horizontal coordinates are discussed first, and various approximations involved in various models are developed and compared. Available tests of the accuracy of model predictions are also reviewed. Attempts to incorporate realistic effects including wave breaking, shoreline runup and wave current interaction into model schemes are discussed. Subsequently, models for one dimensional and weakly two directional propagation are briefly reviewed. Finally, frequency domain formulations are reviewed. In all cases, the primary concentration is on aspects of model development related to the computation of realistic waves in the ocean environment.

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