A note on the breaking of waves
- 19 March 1968
- journal article
- Published by The Royal Society in Proceedings of the Royal Society of London. Series A. Mathematical and Physical Sciences
- Vol. 303 (1475) , 493-496
- https://doi.org/10.1098/rspa.1968.0063
Abstract
A model equation for water waves has been suggested by Whitham (1967) to study, qualitatively at least, the different kinds of breaking. This is an integro-differential equation which combines a typical nonlinear convection term with an integral for the dispersive effects and it is of independent mathematical interest. For an approximate kernel of the form e$^{-b|x|}$, it is shown first that solitary or periodic waves have a maximum height with sharp crests and secondly that waves which are sufficiently asymmetric break into `bores'. The second part applies to a wide class of bounded kernels, but the kernel giving the correct dispersion effects of water waves has a square root infinity and the present argument does not go through. Nevertheless, the possibility of the two kinds of breaking in such integro-differential equations is demonstrated.Keywords
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