A high-resolution wave-sensor array for measuring wave directional-spectra in the nearshore zone
- 1 January 1977
- conference paper
- Published by Institute of Electrical and Electronics Engineers (IEEE)
Abstract
A high spatial-resolution, multiple wave-sensor array recently deployed in the nearshore breaking-wave zone is described. The system is believed unique in terms of its resolving capability for directional wave spectra and its comprehensive scope. The array is a crossed "T" configuration of 30 metres aperture, using 14 wave-sensor elements spaced as a broadband detection ensemble. The wave array spreading function is briefly discussed. The wave sensor used was a teflon capacitance wavestaff of high linearity, accuracy, and stability. Laboratory calibrations are presented and a system error budget developed. The sensors were sampled at 5 SPS and the data was digitally recorded on magnetic tape with the data acquisition system reported in Ocean's '76. A low sea-state record and an initial field record of a well-developed storm episode recorded in January, 1977 are shown. Wave heights of up to 6 metres (20 feet) crest-to-trough were measured during the latter event.Keywords
This publication has 3 references indexed in Scilit:
- A Computer Based System for Data Acquisition and Control of Scientific Experiments on Remote PlatformsPublished by Institute of Electrical and Electronics Engineers (IEEE) ,1976
- An improved capacitive wavestaff for water surface wave measurementsPublished by Institute of Electrical and Electronics Engineers (IEEE) ,1972
- A New Method for Obtaining the Directional Spectrum of Ocean Surface Gravity WavesIEEE Transactions on Geoscience Electronics, 1968