Use of microemulsions as vehicles for nucleophilic reagents in cosmetic formulations

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Abstract
The modifications of chemical reactivity induced in the human hair during its treatment with oxidative (H2O2) or reductive (HSO3Na) agents via a micellar or a microemulsion system have been investigated. For this purpose, phase diagrams of micellar solutions and microemulsions with H2O2 or NaSO3H have been made in order to find out the corresponding areas of solubility. The properties of conductivity, surface tension and light scattering of various monophasic compositions as a function of their water content, have been studied. As a result of the chemical reactivity data of human hair obtained through the reaction of H2O2 or HSO3Na via a micellar or a microemulsion system, it appears reasonable to predict a more effective reaction of such agents with cystine residues existing in keratinic substrates, particularly when they are applied via microemulsion. The decrease of the water content of the compositions considered, increases chemical reactivity of the keratinic proteins favouring the formation of cysteine and of cysteic acid in the reductive or oxidative treatments, respectively.

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