The Significance of Wool Fiber Crimp Part I: A Study on the Worsted System

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Abstract
Two batches of Merino wool, closely matched in fiber diameter and length, but dif fering in their crimp content. have been processed into worsted yarn on the French sys tem and converted into fabric. The changes in the properties of the fibers through processing have been followed. and the properties of intermediate assemblies and of the fabric examined. The fiber crimp was found to persist through processing and to exert an effect on the properties of top. roving, yarn. and fabric. The wool with greater crimp content produced twistless assemblies with greater cohesion; performed better in spinning: gave rise to a bulkier yarn with lower stiffness in extension and lower breaking extension : and resulted in a thicker fabric with softer handle, smoother appearance, lower re sistance to air-flow. slightly lower bending stiffness and better drape, and slightly better recovery from extension and from wrinkling. Crimp appeared to have no influence on the tensile properties of the fabric. or on its resistance to flex abrasion.

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