Observations of the Directional Wave Properties
- 1 December 1964
- journal article
- research article
- Published by Taylor & Francis in Coastal Engineering in Japan
- Vol. 7 (1) , 11-30
- https://doi.org/10.1080/05785634.1964.11924643
Abstract
A method for obtaining the directional wave spectra from the data of the orbital wave velocities is given by using the results of observations at the beach of Tokaimura, Ibaragi Prefecture, and that in the shallow water near Mikuni Harbor, Fukui Prefecture. In the case of observations at Tokaimura, the groups of swells are identified and their sources are determined from the observed directional properties. The observations at Mikuni show some behaviors of wave refraction in the shallow water having complicated bottom topography.Keywords
This publication has 1 reference indexed in Scilit:
- An Electromagnetic Current MeterJournal of the Oceanographical Society of Japan, 1964