The refraction of sea waves in shallow water
- 1 July 1956
- journal article
- research article
- Published by Cambridge University Press (CUP) in Journal of Fluid Mechanics
- Vol. 1 (2) , 163-176
- https://doi.org/10.1017/s0022112056000111
Abstract
This paper considers the changes that occur in the character of short-crested sea waves when they are refracted by a shallowing depth of water. Besides a change in mean wave-length and direction there is also a change (usually an increase) in the mean length of the crests. If the waves approach obliquely they become skew, that is, the crests become staggered one behind another.When a short-crested sea is superposed on a long-creasted swell, refraction tends to amplify the longer waves more than the shorter ones. This also produces an increase in the mean length of the crests.Numerical examples are given.This publication has 6 references indexed in Scilit:
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- The long-wave paradox in the theory of gravity wavesMathematical Proceedings of the Cambridge Philosophical Society, 1953
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- On the Modification of A Train of Waves as It Advances Into Shallow WaterProceedings of the London Mathematical Society, 1915