A Study on Wave Transformation Inside Surf Zone

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Abstract
The wave transformation inside surf zone is treated analytically in this paper under the several appropriate assumptions. The theoretical curves computed numerically have a consistant agreement with the experimental data in the case of wave transformation on a horizontal bottom. On the other hand, in the case of wave transformation on a uniformly sloping beach, the analytical treatment seems to be inadequate to clarify the actual phenomena. Besides them the numerous data on wave height attenuation and others are presented in the graphical forms.

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