Wave Height Distributions and Wave Grouping in Surf Zone

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Abstract
The main purpose of this paper is to propose a model for prediction of the spatial distributions of representative wave heights and the frequency distributions of wave heights of irregular waves in shallow-water including the surf zone. In order to examine the validity of the model, some experiments of irregular wave transformation have been made. In addition, an attempt has been made to clarify the spatial distribution of wave grouping experimentally. Especially the present paper focusses finding the effects of the bottom slope and the deep-water wave steepness on the wave height distribution and wave grouping.

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