Pulmonary gas exchange on the summit of Mount Everest

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Abstract
Pulmonary gas exchange was studied on members of the American Medical Research Expedition to Everest at altitudes of 8,050 m (barometric pressure 284 Torr), 8,400 m (267 Torr) and 8,848 m (summit of Mt. Everest, 253 Torr). Thirty-four valid alveolar gas samples were taken using a special automatic sampler including 4 samples on the summit. Venous blood was collected from two subjects at an altitude of 8,050 m on the morning after their successful summit climb. Alveolar CO2 partial pressure (PCO2) fell approximately linearly with decreasing barometric pressure to a value of 7.5 Torr on the summit. For a respiratory exchange ratio of 0.85, this gave an alveolar O2 partial pressure (PO2) of 35 Torr. In two subjects who reached the summit, the mean base excess at 8,050 m was -7.2 meq/l, and assuming the same value on the previous day, the arterial pH on the summit was over 7.7. Arterial PO2 was calculated from changes along the pulmonary capillary to be 28 Torr. In spite of the severe arterial hypoxemia, high pH, and extremely low PCO2, subjects on the summit were able to perform simple tasks. The results allow us to construct for the first time an integrated picture of human gas exchange at the highest point on earth.