Stable configuration of bottom slope in a shallow sea and its bearing on geological processes

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Abstract
Wave action is a major factor in the formation of beaches and major shore features. However, there are sedimentary formations apparently having their origin in shallow seas in the absence of wave action. This could occur if the bed sloped upward very gently from a moderate depth to the shore line so that the waves approaching the shore were gradually modified in shape and energy content, arriving with zero energy and without breaking anywhere. A mathematical analysis of the problem is made on the assumption that the slope of the bed is such that the waves move shoreward with their maximum possible height without breaking. The bed profile which will accomplish this is computed, and the geological implications of the theory are presented

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