On Kurtosis and Occurrence Probability of Freak Waves
Top Cited Papers
Open Access
- 1 July 2006
- journal article
- Published by American Meteorological Society in Journal of Physical Oceanography
- Vol. 36 (7) , 1471-1483
- https://doi.org/10.1175/jpo2922.1
Abstract
Based on a weakly non-Gaussian theory, the occurrence probability of freak waves is formulated in terms of the number of waves in a time series and the surface elevation kurtosis. Finite kurtosis gives rise to a significant enhancement of freak wave generation in comparison with the linear narrowbanded wave theory. For a fixed number of waves, the estimated amplification ratio of freak wave occurrence due to the deviation from the Gaussian theory is 50%–300%. The results of the theory are compared with laboratory and field data.Keywords
This publication has 23 references indexed in Scilit:
- Nonlinear Four-Wave Interactions and Freak WavesJournal of Physical Oceanography, 2003
- Effects of wave breaking on wave statistics for deep-water random wave trainOcean Engineering, 2003
- A weakly non-gaussian model of wave height distribution for random wave trainOcean Engineering, 2002
- Wave Crest Distributions: Observations and Second-Order TheoryJournal of Physical Oceanography, 2000
- Random Seas and Design of Maritime StructuresAdvanced Series on Ocean Engineering, 2000
- The Wave Energy Concentration at the Agulhas Current off South AfricaNatural Hazards, 1998
- Freak Waves: a Possible ExplanationPublished by Springer Nature ,1990
- Instability and confined chaos in a nonlinear dispersive wave systemPhysics of Fluids, 1982
- The disintegration of wave trains on deep water Part 1. TheoryJournal of Fluid Mechanics, 1967
- On the non-linear energy transfer in a gravity-wave spectrum Part 1. General theoryJournal of Fluid Mechanics, 1962