Nonlinear Long Waves in a Channel of Variable Section
- 1 December 1974
- journal article
- research article
- Published by Taylor & Francis in Coastal Engineering in Japan
- Vol. 17 (1) , 1-12
- https://doi.org/10.1080/05785634.1974.11924178
Abstract
The Kakutani equation is extended to include the effect of the variable width of channel, which is important in such a practical problem as refraction. Assuming that the wave profile is that of cnoidal waves and that this profile is maintained throughout the travel, a law of shoaling is derived. A comparison with experimental data shows that the present theory describes very well the shoaling for gHT2/d2>30, while for gHT2/d2gHT2/d2Hd2/7=const. and for 50< gHT2/d2, it is Hd3/2[≠ gHT2-2≠3]=const. in case of variable depth only. Due to the lack of experimental data, the theoretical result for variable width could not be examined for the present.Keywords
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