Numerical Models of Nearshore Currents and Beach Deformation

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Abstract
This paper describes numerical models for simulating waves, currents and beach deformation. The wave-current model includes wave refraction and breaking, the nonlinear effect of mean momentum convection, wave setup, and wave-current interaction. The beach deformation model employs newly proposed formulas for sediment transport rates due to waves and mean currents. Two test calculations are made to examine the applicability of the models. Though not calibrated with measurements, the models are shown capable of producing realistic nearshore current fields and beach deformations.

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