Etude de tolérances oculaire et cutanée chez le lapin, de différentes matières premières utilisées en cosmétologie, et provenant de fabrications diverses (2ème partie)

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Abstract
Different lots of a number of oils used in cosmetics were subjected to different storage times, analyzed and their effects on rabbit eye and skin were assessed following the official French methods. The scoring system differed slightly from the official method. All products were tested pure in the eye test without rinsing and no corneal involvement was found. Slight congestion of the iris and conjunctiva was noted. The products showing the worst (slightly irritant) score were one sample each of avocado oil and ethyl esters of turtle oil. The highest score on the primary cutaneous irritancy test (slightly irritant) was that for the volatile hydrocarbon solvents which also gave an edematous reaction. On dilution or on open test the reactions were negligible. The repeated application test was continued only for 8 wk (instead of 90 days) and a histological examination was carried out on treated areas at the end of this period. The oils were applied pure and in aqueous emulsion.sbd.10%, or 2% where a severe reaction was observed. Of 5 samples of sweet-almond oil, one showed a high degree of oxidation (peroxide value 35 meq/kg). This sample did not give any significant adverse reaction whereas some irritation and vesicularization was obtained with a sample of low peroxide value stored under nitrogen. Two of the 4 samples of avocado oils tested showed severe irritation and vesicle formation after 6 wk application of the pure oil although no analytical differences were found to correlate with this result. A commercial sample of the unsaponifiable fraction of avocado oil (prepared by molecular distillation) showed severe reactions in the 3 rabbits treated with the pure oil, the study being terminated after 5 wk. The histological examination showed a caustic type reaction.sbd.hyperacanthosis, orthokeratosis and capillary congestion in the superficial dermis. With both 10% and 2% aqueous dispersions and a 2% solution in avocado oil severe reactions were observed. Two samples of castor oil and 1 sample of safflower oil hybrid with high oleic content showed excellent tolerance tested pure as did two further samples of castor oil tested in 10% aqueous dispersion. Ethyl esters of turtle oil showed thickening and drying tested pure but in 10% aqueous dispersion no adverse effects were noted in spite of a high peroxide value (90 meq/kg and 140 meq/kg). Five heavy and 3 light liquid paraffins and two petroleum jelly samples were generally well tolerated. One heavy and 1 light oil gave severe reactions with suppuration tested pure after 6 wk. One of the 2 volatile hydrocarbons tested pure showed a severe reaction after 2 wk confirmed by histological observation but only a minor reaction when tested in dispersion. The 3 silicone oils gave no pathological reactions apart from a slight inflammation with 1 oil tested pure. The results give some further confidence in using many of these oils although the extrapolation of the tests to man remains in question.

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