Some qualitative aspects of nonlinear wave radiation in a surf zone
- 1 July 1972
- journal article
- research article
- Published by Taylor & Francis in Geophysical Fluid Dynamics
- Vol. 3 (4) , 347-354
- https://doi.org/10.1080/03091927208236086
Abstract
Photographs are presented which show a series of small waves produced in a surf zone behind the front of each breaking swell. They probably represent solutions to the Korteweg deVries (cnoidal-wave) equation, and their generation is favored by bottom topography not typical of most surf zones.Keywords
This publication has 5 references indexed in Scilit:
- Field occurrences of induced multiple gravity wavesJournal of Geophysical Research, 1969
- Calculations of the development of an undular boreJournal of Fluid Mechanics, 1966
- Experiments on the flow of water from a reservoir through an open horizontal channel II. The formation of hydraulic jumpsProceedings of the Royal Society of London. Series A. Mathematical and Physical Sciences, 1955
- On cnoidal waves and boresProceedings of the Royal Society of London. Series A. Mathematical and Physical Sciences, 1954
- Mathematical theory of irrotational translation wavesJournal of Research of the National Bureau of Standards, 1940