Changes in the Mechanical Properties and Fabric Handle of Polyester-fibre Fabrics Through the Finishing Stages

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Abstract
The basic mechanical properties and fabric handle of the polyester-fibre fabric called ‘Shingosen’ were pursued through the finishing stages by an objective-evaluation method developed by Kawabata and Niwa, using the KES-FB system. The effects of the finishing stages were clarified as follows. The polyester-fibre fabric is remarkably softened in all its mechanical properties and fabric handle by the stage of relaxing, which includes desizing, shrinking of fibres, and relaxing of the internal residual stress of the fabric. The polyester-fibre fabric becomes increasingly soft at the following weight-reduction stage because of the ‘effective gap’ between fibres and/or yarns and the splitting of fibres. However, the effects of dyeing and raising are small. By using discriminant analysis with the primary hand values as variables, it is considered that bere is a distinctive zone of fabric handle for silk-like and peach-skin-type polyester-fibre ‘Shingosen’ fabric.

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