Generation of surf beat by non-linear wave interactions
- 13 September 1971
- journal article
- research article
- Published by Cambridge University Press (CUP) in Journal of Fluid Mechanics
- Vol. 49 (1) , 1-20
- https://doi.org/10.1017/s0022112071001897
Abstract
Non-linear interactions among wind-generated gravity waves transfer energy to low frequency waves in a coastal zone. A transfer function is derived for a straight coastline of constant bottom slope. This model is applied to three actual cases, and numerical evaluation of the energy transfer produces low frequency spectra which are compared with observations.Keywords
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