Breaking of wind-generated waves: measurements and characteristics

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Abstract
A method of using local wave properties to provide a detailed description of breakings in a random wave field is developed. These properties, derived through the Hilbert transform, include the angular frequency, phase velocity, and surface-velocity components. The breaking characteristics are presented, including the probability of breaking, its time- and lengthscales, its intensity, and the phase of its inception. The time- and lengthscales, of breaking events were found to be linearly proportional to the corresponding scales of underlying waves, and to indicate that the breaking region is geometrically similar. Consistent results were obtained from temporal and spatial measurements. Finally, on the basis of these results we have evaluated geometric and kinematic criteria for identifying breaking waves.

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