Edge waves: a long-wave theory for oceans of finite depth
- 27 February 1974
- journal article
- research article
- Published by Cambridge University Press (CUP) in Journal of Fluid Mechanics
- Vol. 62 (4) , 775-791
- https://doi.org/10.1017/s0022112074000930
Abstract
Edge waves travelling along a straight coastline are examined in the case when the water depth approaches a constant value at large distances from the coast. Only the fundamental mode is examined in the limit as the ratio of the water depth at infinity to the edge-wave wavelength tends to zero. Two comparison theorems are used to obtain upper and lower bounds for the dispersion relation. A long-wave approximation procedure is used to obtain the leading terms in the dispersion relation for a wide class of bottom topographies. The results obtained are compared with an exact result for the case when the bottom topography is a rectangular step.Keywords
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