Experiments on Horizontal Water Particle Velocity at Water Surface of Near Breaking Waves

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Abstract
As a breaking limit of progressive waves, many conditions have been proposed. One of them is that the water particle velocity at the wave crest is equal to the wave celerity. To examine this condition experimentally, the wave profile and the horizontal water particle velocity at the water surface near the crest of breaking waves were measured. These waves progress and break on a very gentle slope beach (1/200), which may be regarded as horizontal bottom. Experimental results of the wave profile and the horizontal water particle velocity at the water surface near the crest of breaking waves are presented and compared with theoretical values, and the breaking condition of progressive waves is examined experimentally.

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