On characteristics of the water-particle velocity in a plunging breaker

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Abstract
Three velocity components of water particles in a plunging breaker over a horizontal step on the bed of a two-dimensional laboratory wave tank have been determined simultaneously by means of an elaborate flowmeter that measures the flow drag on three ‘tension threads’, with each recording a separate flow component.It is found that all three of the r.m.s. values in the plunging breaker become maximum at x/L ≈ 0·7, where x is the distance from the breaking point to the shore and L is the wavelength. It is found that both the velocity and r.m.s. values of the transverse flow component generated by the shoaling and wave breaking become comparable to those of the other two flow components.On the basis of spectral analyses it is found that major wave frequencies in both the longitudinal and vertical flow components of the original two-dimensional wave survive even after experiencing relatively strong shoaling and wave breaking, and part of the original wave energy is transferred to the transverse flow component and is located at these major frequencies. It is found that the majority of the higher-harmonic-frequency components (or turbulent fluctuations) are generated in the shoaling process and that the wave breaking provides a relatively minor contribution to the generation. Finally, it is found that, through the shoaling and wave breaking, the original wave energy is transported to a frequency range lower than the primary wave frequency (negative cascade), as well as to the higher frequency range (positive cascade) in each flow component.

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