Relationship Between Vertical Distribution of Water Particle Velocity and Type of Breakers on Beaches

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Abstract
In order to clarify the water particle velocity field of breaking waves on beaches, experiments were carried out for three kinds of beach slopes (1/10, 1/20 and 1/30). Neutrally buoyant particles were used as tracers to measure the velocities with a 16 mm high speed cinecamera. Since photographs of the wave profile near breaking were also taken in the same films, the change of the wave profile near breaking was also examined. It was found that vertical distributions of horizontal water particle velocities at the crest and trough phases of breaking waves on beaches cannot be explained by the finite amplitude wave theories for uniform depth. Then, they were discussed in comparison with the breaker types. As a result, it was shown that the dimensionless vertical distribution of horizontal water particle velocity at the crest phase of breaking waves is determined by the combination of the beach slope and the deep-water wave steepness.

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