On slowly-varying Stokes waves
- 29 April 1970
- journal article
- research article
- Published by Cambridge University Press (CUP) in Journal of Fluid Mechanics
- Vol. 41 (4) , 873-887
- https://doi.org/10.1017/s0022112070000988
Abstract
A WKB-perturbation technique is applied to study the slow modulation of a Stokes wave train on the surface of water. It is found that new terms directly representing modulation rates must be included to extend the scope of validity of Whitham's theory based on an averaged Lagrangian. Two examples are discussed. In the first, a monochromatic wave normally incident on a mild beach is studied and the local rate of depth variation is found to affect the wave phase. In the second, the ‘side-band instability’ problem of Benjamin & Feir is discussed from both linear and non-linear points of view.Keywords
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