Computation of Wave Heights Due to Refraction and Friction

Abstract
The equations for the wave orthogonals and the wave heights are presented for depth refraction of regular, long-crested, small amplitude surface gravity waves over an arbitrary bottom, using time as the independent variable. The effect of turbulent bottom friction on the wave height is included. The computer outputs are in the form of automatically plotted wave orthogonals with the wave heights written at discrete points along these paths. Systematic tests are presented for water areas with straight and parallel bottom contours. The errors inherently connected with the introduction of a grid plus a set of formulas for the differentiation and interpolation are examined for a horizontal bottom with an infinite long sinusoidal threshold. For one plane sloping bottom, information is given for the influence of the initial curvature of the wave front, bottom roughness, and initial wave height.

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