Spectral Resolution of Breakwater Reflected Waves

Abstract
A means of resolving incident and reflected wave heights for a partial standing wave through the use of two fixed wave sensors is demonstrated. Field studies were conducted in which the waves incident to the permeable rubblemound breakwater located in Monterey Harbor, CA, are spectrally resolved into incident, reflected and transmitted wave components. Power-spectra and cross-spectra are calculated for various characteristic sea states. Amplitude and phase are determined for the spectral wave components compromising the partial standing wave phenomena and reflection and transmission coefficients determined. The reflection coefficients vary between 0.3 and 0.7 and the transmission coefficients between 0.1 and 0.2. The transmission and reflection coefficients are shown to be dependent on the frequency and amplitude of the incident waves and the tidal stage.

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